Camper Van Build: Vehicle Body Alterations

What you’ll learn

This article is part of the Camper Van Conversion series, covering body alterations: installing windows, ceiling fans, swivel seats, lowering the e-brake (on Ford Transits), and adding additional suspension, roof rack, ladder, and bench seat.

The first thing you’re going to do when you buy a new cargo van is admire the shiny interior and imagine all the possibilities for your new home. In a few minutes you’ll start thinking about the work, then realize the first things you need to do are body modifications, the can’t-redo-holes-in-sheet-metal. Sweat.

Interior of Ford Transit cargo van before camper van conversion
Ford Transit cargo interior before camper van conversion.
Standing man showing arms length width comparison of Ford Transit cargo van interior for camper van conversion.
Spec’ing the living possibilities in a van’s 60 sq ft (5.5ft W x 10.5ft L x 6.5ft H).
Interior of Ford Transit cargo van sheet metal on driver's side, before camper van conversion.
Imagining cutting holes through the van.

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RV-style window installation

The first step in our camper van conversion was installing windows. We ordered a cargo van, meaning there weren’t any factory-installed windows on the sides, as compared to passenger vans. Because we designed for a bench seat for kid(s), we wanted as many windows as possible. We also wanted RV-style “T” vent windows so they have levered, screened openings, that can be cracked in rain.

We made a deliberate decision to start with the passenger side sliding-door window, since worst case we figured we could order another sliding door if we messed up.

CR Laurence Windows

Campervan-HQ

Unfortunately, it’s about the only choice in full-size windows for Ford and Sprinter. Their quality control isn’t great, and we had to exchange for defects. This dealer was great to work with, though.

CR Laurence window
Ford Transit cargo van exterior driver's side, before window installation.
Before installing windows.
Exterior of Ford Transit van with CR Laurence camper van window installed
After installing T-vent window.

The CR Laurence windows attach via a compression ring, so there’s no adhesive or sealant needed.

Installing CR Laurence windows on a camper van conversion, creating template
Trace the outline of the ring and cut it out of the packaging box.
Installing CR Laurence windows on a camper van, tracing outline on van
Trace the outline of the window on the van with a sharpie.
Installing CR Laurence windows on a camper van, drilling helper holes along outline
Drill holes along the outline to help guide the reciprocating saw. We ended up drilling many more holes along the rounded corners.
Installing CR Laurence windows on a camper van, practicing cutting with reciprocal saw in center
Practice cutting a hole in the middle first.
Installing CR Laurence windows on a camper van, using reciprocal saw
Painter’s tape will help keep a clean edge. It makes quite a bit of difference having someone heavier who can push against the van body.
Installing CR Laurence windows on a camper van, raw sheet metal edges after cutting with reciprocal saw
View of the raw sheet metal burrs after cutting out the window.
Installing CR Laurence windows on a camper van, filing the raw edge of sheet metal after cutting with reciprocal saw
File the raw edges smooth.

After you’ve filed the metal burrs off, coat with a primer of POR-15. It’s an excellent raw-metal sealant to prevent rust. Get a lot of the 4-oz small size rather than a pint–it seals so well that it’ll quickly become hard to open the can. You’ll use POR-15 for a lot of body work.

Installing the window is a 2-person job. One person holds the ring on the inside, the other person holds the window on the outside, and the person on the inside starts tightening screws to compress the ring against the window. No photos, since all of our hands were busy for this part!

Fan Installation

One of the best decisions we made was to have 2 fans, one in front and one in back. You need a just a tad bit of air pull to prevent condensation in the van, especially when it’s cold out. With 2 fans, one can pull air in and the other can push air out, giving a very nice breeze through the van. We had only 1 fan in our previous camper van conversion, and there’s no question that 2 fans are worth it. If you do 1 fan, place it in the rear so that you can crack a window in front and still pull air across the van.

MaxxFan 7500K fans

Amazon

Remote-controlled, motor-powered, 10-speed, can be thermostat-controlled, can push air in or out.

You’ll need a roof fan install kit with a Ford; you might be able to make do without on a Sprinter. Because of the roof angle and grooves, the fan won’t sit flush on the Transit without the adapter. It also provides more rigid support for the fan compared to only sheet metal. You’ll also need 3M Windo-Weld and Dicor self-leveling sealant. All these are in the Parts Directory.

Installing MaxxFan fans in a camper van, cutting hole in roof
Sharpie the hole, cover it with painter’s tape, cut it with a jigsaw, file it, and POR-15 it as with the window install.
Installing MaxxFan fans in a camper van, using adapter kit and 3M Windo-weld
Use 3M Windo-Weld to attach the roof install kit adapter to the top of the roof. Clamp in many spots for an even distribution of glue.
Installing MaxxFan fans in a camper van, attaching fan adapter to the install kit
Attach the fan’s adapter to the install kit using the butyl tape included in the install kit. Tighten the screws.
Installing MaxxFan fan on a camper van, showing layers: dicor, fan adapter, butyl tape, install kit adapter, 3M windo-weld
Layers of the install job.
Installing MaxxFan fan in camper van, layering dicor self-leveling sealant on roof
Applying multiple layers of Dicor self-leveling sealant. It looks ugly, but it’s effective and the best for allowing vibrations. You should check the Dicor every year or so and fill in any cracks.
Installing MaxxFan fan in camper van, finished view from roof
Finished job from outside.
Installing MaxxFan fan in camper van, finished view from interior
Finished job from inside.

Swivel Seats

In the Ford Transit, if you have the electric seat/seat heater combo, you’ll have to trim the bottom of the plastic seat panel and relocate the seat heater button so there’s clearance to turn.

Ford Transit swivel seat installation for camper van conversion
Side of seat before putting on swivels. The swivel will go where the dotted line is, so everything underneath needs to be removed. The seat heater push button needs to be relocated as well.
Ford Transit swivel seat installation, removing the seat and wiring harness
Remove the seat. The main electronics harness is circled. Disconnect that as well.
Ford Transit swivel seat installation, removing the seat
The jack and wires are located under the passenger seat.
Ford Transit swivel seat installation, trimming black plastic panel
Pop the seat heater button out of the plastic panel. Then trim the plastic.
Ford Transit swivel seat installation, after swivel is attached
After installing the swivel.
Ford Transit swivel seat installation, relocating the seat heater button
Use a circular bit the same size as the seat heater button and drill out its new location on the side. Pop the seat heater button in. Repeat on driver’s side.
Ford Transit swivel seat installation, driver and passenger side done
Done.

Lowering the e-brake on Ford Transits

The Ford Transit has a hand brake on the floor (why oh why?), so you’ll need to lower it to swivel the driver’s seat. You can buy a bracket to lower it, from a dealer like NomadVanz, with the swivel itself. It lowers the e-brake by over 2″ so that the swivel can clear. Who said a camper van conversion was easy?

Lowering the e-brake on Ford Transit for swivel seat installation
e-brake on after lowering it; before, it was 2in taller.
Lowering the e-brake on Ford Transit for swivel seat installation
e-brake off after lowering it; before, it was 2in taller and wouldn’t have cleared the seat swivel.
The adapter bracket.
The factory silver e-brake mount was previously mounted at A; the bracket allows it to be lowered from A to B.
Dotted line: e-brake adapter. Bolts labeled corresponding to above product image.

Lowering the e-brake isn’t difficult, but it’s tedious to remove the driver’s seat and move the vehicle starter battery under the driver’s seat so you have access to remove and install the bolts. There’s a much better step-by-step at FarOutRide.

4×4 Quigley Conversion + Tires

We purchased 4×4 through Quigley, the longest-run and most reputable Ford 4×4 conversion company around. Ford recognizes their work and it’s covered under Ford warranty. You can purchase a Transit at a local Ford fleet dealer with the Quigley conversion, and the Ford dealer handles the van delivery directly to Quigley, and finances it all with your vehicle loan. Quigley uses Ford 250 parts for the 4×4 conversion. It’s been great. It was $13k total. The 4×4 conversion added 2″ lift to the empty cargo van. Weighed down with the rest of our camper van conversion, it netted 1″ lift. When we added additional suspension (see below), we got back the 1″ for a total of 2″ lift.

In 2020, Ford started offering an AWD version of the Transit. Keep in mind it’s AWD and not 4×4. AWD is fine if you’re primarily driving on paved or graded roads, and it’s better in pure ice and snow. If you’re doing serious off-roading like in Tahoe or Indian Creek, you probably want 4×4.

If you don’t want to spring for AWD or 4×4, at least upgrade the tires. The stock tires are terrible, especially in mud and snow, even on a paved road. We have the BF Goodrich All-Terrain T/A KO2s 245/75/R16. They make a ton of difference, and they’re surprisingly quiet for all-terrains.

BF Goodrich All-Terrain T/A KO2s 245/75/R16

bfgoodrich

These tires grip, getting us out of places where we would’ve needed 4×4 with the stock tires. And they’re incredibly quiet.

The 245/75 tires are larger than the 235/65 stock tires, so (1) your odometer will be off by 8% (e.g. if your speedometer reads 60mph, you’re really driving ~65mph) and (2) you’ll need to shave a little off the wheel well so the tire can clear. This is a good article on how to trim it.

Adding Suspension

Weighed down with fuel, water, and gear, we added 2800lb to the vehicle. With so much weight on the van, and most of it in the rear, we wanted more stability especially when off-roading. From experience in our old van, a stiffer ride is much more comfortable and results in much less car sickness, especially for passengers.

SuperSprings

SuperSprings

They’re ~4.5ft long and mount lengthwise from front to back above the factory leaf springs. They reduce sway and prevent sagging.

sumospring for ford transit
View of SuperSprings from the rear passenger side.

SumoSprings

Amazon

These replace the factory suspension in the rear. They’re 1500lb capacity, helping absorb bumps and shocks.

View of the rear SumoSprings from the rear passenger side. The rear passenger wheel is on the right side of the photo.

Coil SumoSprings

Amazon

These fit in-between the existing front suspension coils of the vehicle and add 15-30% capacity to the existing springs.

View of the front coils SumoSprings wrapped around the factory suspension.

Aside from the terribly confusing product names of SuperSpring, SumoSpring, and Coil SumoSpring, they weren’t bad to install; 1 person could probably manage.

Roof rack and ladder

We installed a VanTech roof rack, which has performed very well. Our roof rack, ladder, and awning are silver, which makes us look like a true utility van rather than a camper van conversion–handy when you need to crash on the street. We didn’t install 2 of the cross-bars where our 2 fans are located.

The one thing we don’t like is the rack sits up high off the roof, about 4-5″. The side bars are also quite high, which probably have an impact with partial shading on the solar panels when the sun angle is low. Choose a roof rack long enough, or installed close enough to the front of the cab, so your awning covers your whole sliding door.

We considered Prime Design roof rack, but there’s a bar that runs the length of the side channels. We thought it’d be too easy for debris to get stuck in. Aluminess racks look great, but are twice as expensive (almost $3k!).

Our ladder is Prime Design by American Van. It’s sturdy and doesn’t require drilling. We attach crash pads to it if we don’t have room inside our cargo area.

Roof rack and ladder.

Second Row Bench Seat

Since we bought a cargo van, it didn’t come with any seating other than the cab seats. If you buy a passenger van, the mount points/rails and bench seating are included. Sprinter cargos come with the seating mount points, but the Transit cargos don’t. Mounting the seat ourselves rather than having the default factory passenger van mounts meant we could mount it 2-3in closer to the side wall.

We found the Ford OEM bench seat through a local van conversion dealer that works mostly with corporate companies like Enterprise. They change and outfit passenger vans so much that they sold us the seat. The seat is quick-release-detachable from the mounting rail, so while it’s heavy to remove, it’s possible, and was very handy when building the van.

We mounted the bench seat through the sheet metal floor with four 4in X 6in x 3/16in sheet metal plates. We secured it with 0.5in grade 8 bolts and stainless steel washers. The seat isn’t going anywhere–and if any force were large enough to pull it out, you’d suffer from a crushed chest first.

Second row bench seat

What we would do differently

  • Install a CR Laurence T-window on the driver’s side and get a factory window on the sliding door. We ended up opening only the driver’s side window almost exclusively. That’s the side we normally cook on, and we have to remember not to slam the sliding door while the louver window is open. Plus, only half the lower window opens on the sliding door side since the door lock stick is in the way. We’d get a factory window on the sliding door, so we don’t give up the window, but we don’t need the louvers.
  • Use different swivel seats. The Scopemas are a lower profile than the competition, but they’re more finicky to unlock to turn. But, the height profile isn’t an issue if you have height-adjusting seats on both the driver and passenger side. We had Swivels R Us swivels in our old van and liked their operation much more. If you don’t have height-adjusting seats, and you’re under ~5’6″, your feet aren’t likely to reach the floor with Swivels R Us. We made a 2″ block in our old van under the passenger side floor mat so I could sit comfortably.
  • Consider AWD since it’s an option on 2020 models, instead of Quigley 4×4. AWD isn’t available with Diesel, however.
  • Make our own roof rack. Now that we’re more proficient with welding, we’d make our own. It likely won’t save any cost, especially considering time, but we can make it the profile we want.
  • Consider a bench seat that folds up. The Freedman company sells a model seat called the 3PT double fold-away seat. It attaches to the side of the van rather than the floor, so you can flip the back rest down and the whole seat against the side of the van. It’d give more floor space for kids to run around, albeit less seating area, and you’d have to find a place to put carseats.

Camper Van Conversion Articles

Coming soon

  • Plumbing
  • Insulation & Heating
  • Structures & Flooring
  • Creature Comforts (e.g. port-a-potty, cell signal booster)
  • Kids: Designing a van and traveling as a family

→ Explore more articles in Camper Van